ZIMA Restaurant review: a second outpost arrives in Notting Hill

We had originally planned to try ZIMA earlier this year, but a flood at the restaurant delayed our visit. I was genuinely disappointed, this Russian restaurant with Eastern European influences is a unique addition to the Notting Hill dining scene, and I was eager to give it a try. While I’ll admit my knowledge of this cuisine is limited, I always relish the chance to explore something new. With ZIMA already well-established in Soho, I was optimistic. This week, we finally made it, and what a delight it was.

ZIMA Notting Hill. Image credit Lateef Okunnu.

Taking over the former Buvette site Parisian Bistrot style restaurant (which operated for just over two years), ZIMA has transformed the ambience while keeping the general layout. A few counter seats in the window overlook the lively street just off the infamous Portobello Road. A long marble bar runs the length of the narrow ground floor, lined with stools perfect for couples or solo diners. At the back are intimate tables, with a glowing feature wall showcasing ZIMA’s signature homemade “nastoyas” - infused vodkas in large glass jars radiating shades of yellow, red and orange. On closer inspection they are filled with raspberries, sea buckthorn berries, gooseberries and horseradish. For those wanting to work their way through a vodka shot tasting, vodka lovers will be in heaven here. While they can’t serve vodka alone (they’re not licensed as a bar), there are plenty of delicious small plates to accompany your tasting, including caviar, of course.

The décor details abounds with charming details. Flip over the menu and you’ll find information on the restaurant’s curated art collection of Russian household items and artefacts, from hand-painted folklore spinning wheels and sledges to antique door panels and works by contemporary artists.

Borsch 4 and Chicken + Beef Pelmeni

In a gentle nod to culinary diplomacy, while Ukraine and Russia are at war the dumplings from each country sit peacefully on the menu. In a gentle nod to culinary diplomacy, both Russian and Ukrainian dumplings appear side by side on the menu. The pelmeni, traditional Russian meat dumplings, come in a classic beef and chicken version served with bouillon and sour cream, or a more decadent smoked cod and foie gras variety, paired with a citrus sour cream and mushroom broth. The Ukrainian vareniki, filled with potato and mushroom, are served with caramelised onions and butter. We tried both, flavourful and generously portioned (nine dumplings for £14.50, twelve for £17). The broth was subtle, seemingly there more to keep the dumplings moist than to steal the spotlight.

We also began with Borsch, the iconic beet-based soup. Comforting, it’s a dish that feels like home, even if it’s not your own. Though both Ukraine and Russia lay claim to it, and debates abound, Ukraine successfully petitioned UNESCO to recognise borscht as part of its Intangible Cultural Heritage. Still, as far as I’m concerned, politics should never interfere with a great dish. Here, it’s served with salo (cured pork fat) to spread on rye bread, a generous side of sour cream (which I was learning comes with many of their dishes), and the welcome heat of red chilli and spring onion to nibble alongside. An appreciated addition, especially for someone like me who enjoys a bit of hot spice.

Draniki (a kind of traditional potato rösti). Image credit Lateef Okunnu.

For vegetarians, draniki (a kind of traditional potato rösti) comes with — yes — sour cream and a mushroom sauce. Non-vegetarians can opt for herring fillet or salmon roe. This version is  less crisp than the rösti I am familiar with (being half Swiss I’ve had plenty of rösti in my time) but a tasty and filling dish regardless. My dining partner enjoyed the Aubergine Rolls, filled with hummus and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. I had the Beef Stroganoff served with pickles and sour cream on the side. The beef was superbly tender, and the very tasty sauce was a perfect velvety light creamy consistency. It comes with accompaniment choices of buckwheat, fried potatoes or mashed potatoes. I ordered buckwheat trying to be healthy but immediately wished I had ordered the mash. Then to top off my healthy spree (ahem) our lovely waitress Eliza suggested a shot of the horseradish vodka to pair with the dish. I obliged and it worked beautifully. In this moment, sipping vodka with my meal I felt like a real Russian (my name is Natascha after all).

For those less vodka-inclined, the wine list is worth a look. There is a selection of Georgian wines (new to me) and for “research purposes” I sampled the Rkatsiteli White, Tbilvino and the Chateau Purcari, Cabernet Sauvignon from Moldova. Both were highly quaffable. The red was smooth, dominated by black cherry and exotic spice notes and light tannins. The cocktails, too, were a highlight, not an afterthought. We tried the “Red Square” (Cranberry Nastoyka, Passoã, cranberry juice, chocolate syrup, lemon juice, orange bitters) and the summery “Apricot Hugo Twist” (Apricot Nastoyka, St-Germain, mint, Crémant, soda water), both artfully balanced and refreshing.

Aubergine Rolls, filled with hummus and sprinkled with pomegranate. Image credit Lateef Okunnu.

To finish we ordered the vibrant orange-hued sea buckthorn tea, rich and thicker in consistency than normal tea best saved for afternoon tea with a slice of their excellent honey cake. The tea presentation was joyous, coming in a red teapot to be poured into podstakanniks (glass teacups in ornate metal holders) which can only be described as works of art - they emerged in 18th-century Russia, a period when tea drinking became common in Russia. For dessert, we had Syrniki, cottage cheese pancakes served with sour cream and a choice of honey, condensed milk or raspberry sauce; we chose raspberry. The dish was light, airy and irresistible, reminiscent of a Japanese soufflé but with Eastern European charm.

ZIMA is a wonderful introduction to the culture and cuisine of Russia. But once you have dined here it will certainly not be a one-off curious visit, the food and drink are genuinely too good for that and the staff are warm, knowledgeable, and passionate about the food they serve.  Set lunches offer excellent value for locals, with a meat option at £19.99 and a vegetarian option at £13.99 (available Monday to Friday). Families will find plenty of dishes to satisfy younger appetites (dumplings, especially). In the evening, it makes for a unique and memorable date night or group dinner spot.

Image credit Lateef Okunnu.

In a time when divisions dominate headlines, a restaurant like ZIMA reminds us of the power of shared meals. The world would be a more peaceful place if we could all sit down and break bread over food this good.

 Location: 9 Blenheim Crescent W11 2 EE. Website: zima.restaurant  Instagram: @zimarestaurant

Review by Natascha Milsom