Noreen: a new Middle Eastern restaurant in St Christopher’s Place

This week we were invited to a spectacular dinner at newly opened Noreen, located at St Christopher’s Place, a charming enclave I often dip into to escape the chaos of Oxford Street. The narrow, cobbled streets have a charming village feel, bustling with alfresco dining and boutique shops. Just a short stroll away lies the heart of Marylebone Village in one direction and Selfridges in the other. While Selfridges has its fair share of dining options, I would make the effort of leaving the building to head here for lunch.

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

On arrival, the interiors were immediately striking, oozing organic charm, with earthy tones, signature tadelakt curved walls, warm tones and plant lined curved banquettes upholstered in a contemporary interpretation of a Bedouin Sadu textile. Subtly uplit greenery and tasselled ceiling lights swaying gently in the breeze set the tone for a cosy evening ahead. There is also some comfortable outdoor area making the most of our balmy summer evenings.

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

Noreen’s Head Chef Mehdi Hani previously worked at The Dorchester and as Head Chef at Harrods. His menu showcases some of his favourite Middle Eastern dishes, drawing on his Syrian Lebanese heritage. We were invited to sample an array of items on the menu, each more impressive than the last. Every dish showcased its own character, its own unique characteristics with layered spice profiles and exceptional balance. One can only imagine the treasure trove of exotic spices and ingredients tucked away in the kitchen.

The evening began unexpectedly with milk buns, something you would be more likely to spot in a Japanese bakery. Flavoured with cardamom and topped with whipped butter and a small pool of date molasses, they were light, fluffy and delicious. Who doesn’t love a fluffy white bun?

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

We continued with several dips, accompanied by a selection of their flatbreads pulled from the Tannour oven. I can highly recommend ordering a trio of dips, including the Feta Harra, made with whipped feta, chilli, chives, spiced crisps and Aleppo oil; the Badenjan, a burnt aubergine purée with pomegranate tahini, miso-roasted aubergine, walnuts and Aleppo chilli; and the Hummus Short Rib, which comes topped with red pepper purée, sesame and roasted garlic oil. The variety here offers a perfect way to open the meal, with the Hummus Short Rib a standout favourite at our table.

Among the small bites, two vegetarian dishes deserve special mention. The Mushroom Kubbe, made with burghul dumplings, seasonal mushrooms, Syrian seven spice crema and pine nuts, was light and flavourful. The Halloumi, served with hot honey, zereshk which are dried barberries, and pistachios, came in bite sized squares that were far too easy to keep popping and dangerously moreish.

There are also a few crudo dishes on the menu. We particularly enjoyed the Sea Bass Naye, with lime achar, chilli mabooch, pearl onion and coriander combined to create a bright, clean dish that was ideal after a hot day and acted as a palate cleanser before continuing with the more robust dishes.

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

The Fattoush was a summer standout made with baby gem, mint, parsley, marinated cucumber and tomato, pomegranate seeds, radish, pomelo and crisp pitta shards chopped fine enough to let the tangy dressing infuse every bite. It paired beautifully with meats from the Minqala grill, especially the tender Riyash lamb chops served with sabzi crème fraîche and vine leaf tabbouleh, and the Moghrabieh Short Rib, a slow cooked dish with Levantine pasta pearls, bone marrow and spinach. Perhaps more of a winter dish, but so good I am happy for it to sit on the menu all year round.

The showstopper dish was the whole butterflied Sea Bream, grilled to perfection and topped with a harissa butter lemon sauce. In principle a simple dish, but I find they are often the best.

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

A selection of four exotic sounding desserts followed. They were well balanced, not overly sweet and each came with its own flourish. A perfect end to the meal. If we had to pick one to highlight, it would be the Kunafa, a dish of kataifi pastry, pistachio crémeux and akkawi cheese filling, pistachio daokia, mastika ice cream and a hibiscus and orange blossom syrup drizzled on top.

The wine list highlights a selection from new, young and emerging producers across lesser known regions in Lebanon and the Eastern Mediterranean, while the cocktail menu was created in collaboration with Mr Lyan and is not to be overlooked. It includes the use of Arak, a traditional spirit, and weaves in regional ingredients like black lime, tahini and hibiscus into creative interpretations of classic cocktails. We began the evening with the Chilled Shai, a refreshing summer cocktail made from a Noreen tea blend cold brewed with seasonal fruits and sumac and blanco tequila. The evening ended with the Noreen Arak Gimlet which was light, brisk and elegant. Non alcoholic versions of each cocktail are available too, which should please even the driest critics. Grace Dent, we are looking at you. Sadly, that is not us… yet.

Noreen Restaurant. Image courtesy of Noreen Restaurant

Dining at Noreen is a Middle Eastern culinary journey with a confident and contemporary twist. Full of bold flavours, thoughtfully curated ingredients and warm, attentive service, it is a place equally suited for mezze and cocktails or a full dinner. It may be new, but it already feels like a future favourite.

Location: 28-32 ST Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NU. Website:noreen-london.com Instagram:  @noreenlondon

Review by Natascha Milsom