Park Corner Brasserie at London Hilton Park Lane review

The London Hilton on Park Lane, (est. 1961) underwent a significant transformation completed in spring last year to mark its 60th anniversary. This multi-million-pound refurbishment, led by G.A. Design International, has revitalised the hotel. We went along to try their Park Corner Brasserie just off the redesigned lobby which features an open-plan layout complemented by kinetic art installation, Falling Still, by Giles Miller, symbolising the graceful descent of autumn leaves. Galvin at Windows is no longer. Shanghai Me, a Pan Asian fine dining restaurant is due to replace it.

I have not had many reasons to visit the hotel, but on one of my visits decades ago, I went there for cocktails at Trader Vic’s — a historic Polynesian-themed Tiki bar and the inventor of the Mai Tai, open since 1963. It was kitsch, but in a fun, quirky way. In 2022, it closed too, due to a lease termination by Hilton.As a testament to its sentimental and historic value, a campaign was initiated to save it, and there was even a listing application with Historic England.

My last trip to the Hilton involved picking up a parcel from reception left by my cousin on the day of the London 7/7 bombings. I was perplexed on my drive over, seeing tube stations closed and people waiting outside on Queensway. The horrific realities unfolded over the course of the day. So on this visit, I am hopeful and ready to create new memories related to the Hilton, which has proudly stood on Hyde Park Corner since 1963, once claiming the title of the tallest hotel in Europe.

Chicken Liver Parfait accompanied by apple & onion chutney and Grilled Cauliflower with spicy coriander sauce, red onion & ginger, London Hilton Park Lane. Image courtesy of Park Corner Brasserie.

The Park Corner Brasserie is the hotels main restaurant running under the culinary leadership of Chefs Jean Didier and Anthony Marshall, who serve up refined British fare with seasonal flair from an attractive state of the art kitchen. The menu is delightfully diverse, satisfying everyone’s taste. From a juicy Park Corner Burger to a Dover Sole and even a Slow Cooked Barbary Duck Leg. There are also crowd-pleasers like risotto, fish and chips and the humble but glorious prawn cocktail.

We rolled in for the lunch time set menu. Reasonably priced at £25 for 2 courses and £29 for 3 (each course with three choices). We did however stray into à la carte territory when it came to dessert, but more on that in a moment. We began with the satisfying and simply presented Chicken Liver Parfait accompanied by apple & onion chutney and the extremely tasty Grilled Cauliflower which I would happily have had as a main dish. Served with spicy coriander sauce, red onion & ginger. The flavours were robust and very well balanced.

Roast Sea Bass with Tomato salsa, capers, basil and burnt butter, London Hilton Park Lane. Image courtesy of Park Corner Brasserie.

Mains followed with Roast Sea Bass with Tomato salsa, capers, basil and burnt butter. The skin was perfectly crisp and the salsa a nice match, but the dish needed a carb to soften the acidity of the salsa. Luckily we had ordered a side of the buttered mash, though it comes at a cost beyond the set menu. My vegetarian dining companion ordered the Roasted Tomato Risotto, complete with peas, Lincolnshire poacher (a cheddar like cheese) radishes and basil. It wasn’t quite her thing, and I think there may be some who would prefer the familiar taste of parmesan cheese but I gave it a try and found it fault free. The third main offered on the set menu was a Pan-Fried Free Range Chicken Breast with crushed new potatoes, asparagus and red wine jus. If I had to pick holes at our meal the only fault I can think of, which is hardly worth mentioning, is the buttered mash could have been a bit creamier. All portions were generous, perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented.

Roasted Tomato Risotto, Park Corner Brasserie, London Hilton Park Lane. Image courtesy of Park Corner Brasserie.

For dessert going a la carte may have been our mistake as they were quite large but had me thinking I would definitely pop in for tea and cake here one afternoon if I was in the area as both desserts were delicious. We had the Chocolate and Coffee Tart, Hazelnut Ice Cream and the Rhubarb and Mascarpone Cheesecake, came with a tangy rhubarb and raspberry sorbet and scattering of biscuit crumb.

As for the brasserie’s itself – the interiors draw inspiration from the adjacent Hyde Park, borrowing a fresh colour palette of greens and neutrals. All very tasteful and in offensive yet somehow lacking a little warmth. It may be due to the source of all the lighting in the room coming from overhead and perhaps set a little too bright. The room is laid out into three distinct sections. The main dining area where you enter is a space which gives diners a clear view into an expansive slick kitchen with smartly dressed chefs. Seating is comfortable and tables spacious. Contemporary ceramics and plants are dotted on the display shelves. Up a few steps is a raised platform with trailing plants softening the street view, and a higher still an area for afternoon tea as well as a small bar area with stools which may suit solo diners at breakfast or dinner.

Chocolate and Coffee Tart, Hazelnut Ice Cream, Park Corner Brasserie, London Hilton Park Lane. Image credit MTotoe.

In short, Park Corner Brasserie is a stellar choice if you’re looking for a relaxing, reliably good meal post-park-stroll, or if you’re dining with someone you barely know and want to avoid food-related awkwardness. The menu’s broad, the flavours are on point, and the presentation wouldn’t look out of place in a glossy food mag.

And if nothing else, come for dessert. Just… maybe wear stretchy trousers.

Location: London Hilton Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, Mayfair, London W1K 1BE. Opening hours: Open daily Mon – Fri 12pm-10pm/ Saturday & Sundays 12.30-10pm. Website: parkcornerbrasserie.com Instagram: @parkcornerbrasserie

Review by Natascha Milsom