Kanpai Classic Soho review

What a privilege it was to head to Kanpai Classic on Wardour Street, Soho this week for an extraordinarily refined Wagyu menu experience. Though I like to think of myself as fairly “in the know” when it comes to all things foodie I had not heard about the Kanpai Group before - a Japanese-style Wagyu yakiniku (grilled beef) restaurant concept founded in Taiwan in 2005. Kanpai Classic is the more mature, elevated sibling of the original brand which aims to grill each cut of beef with exceptional expertise. Their business model allows them to purchase and use the entire animal with a zero-waste philosophy.

In 2024 Kanpai launched its exceptional Wagyu and yakiniku concept onto London’s dining scene backed by impressive credentials: its Shanghai Bund location made history in 2016 by becoming the world’s first Michelin-starred yakiniku restaurant.

Kanpai Classic Soho London. Image credit It’s Me Louis Photography.

The timing for our visit couldn’t have been better, my birthday the following day and my daughter had just passed another of her CIMA exams the day before. Kanpai Classic’s Chef’s Special Omakase menu fully matched our celebratory mood, serving uniquely A5 grade Himawari and Moriawase Wagyu cuts. Unlike  typical Japanese A5  Wagyu, Himawari is carefully selected through a two-step process, ensuring all cuts are marbled to perfection.

We began with excellent cocktails: a “Yuzu Jasmine Daquiri” well balanced with floral notes of jasmine and a long citrusy finish and a “Pandan & Coconut Margarita” a rich, complex and delicious flavour combination. 

The restaurant’s Masuizumi sake collection, from Japan’s award winning brewery, deserves special mention. Categorised into Oboro (soft), Okibi (smoky), and Seseragi(vibrant) are designed to match various cuts. A sake flight (£110) is available, alongside wine pairings at £65 (Wine), £110 (Premium Wine), and £136 (Exquisite Wine). 

Kanpai Classic Soho London. Image credit It’s Me Louis Photography.

I’ve always had a penchant for sake but not knowing any better, in the early days, I was always keen on the warmed-up varieties which I came to learn is not the best that sake has to offer. I have too many core memories to abandon it entirely but dining at Kanpai has brought with it a whole new appreciation for sake and I may well be on the path to drinking less wine and more sake.

Given the opportunity to try their Masuizumi x Henri Giraud Chene d’Argonne 2019 from the Oboro selection I jumped at the chance. This very special sake was born from a collaboration with Henri Giraud, a renowned Champagne house. Sake is aged in French oak barrels previously used for champagne, creating a rich, smooth sake with a nutty edge. My daughter chose red wine instead, I can’t help but feel she missed out.

We began our Omakase menu with their version of a Salmon Tamaki Sushi, fine slivers of cucumber topped by two mounds, one of delicately diced salmon and roe  and next to it a teaspoon of sushi rice topped with a Wagyu tartare and a dot of fresh wasabi all laid on a large nori sheet to wrap these divine morsels. A revelation ….why is seafood and beef not combined more often in this way? It works an absolute treat.  

Following came the unforgettable “Wagyu Treasure Caviar”. Aptly named as it was filled with jewelled flavours.  Served in a caviar tin sized shallow bowl was a base of wagyu tartare topped with rows of sea urchin, caviar, smoked salmon roe and salmon tartare served over ice and with a beautiful pearl style caviar spoon - this was a sensational dish. With the first mouthful my daughter and I just looked at each other across the table, locked eyes, and nodded our heads gently in approval. Alas she is a foodie too; there is no greater pleasure than eating with someone who just gets it.  

Kanpai Classic Soho London. Image credit It’s Me Louis Photography.

Oysters followed topped, with Wagyu tartare and a slightly sweet kombu foam and an underlying acidity of lemon. Then a Yellowtail Spicy Miso Ceviche with blood orange, green tomato, and a spicy miso coriander sauce. Curled into a small bowl was a nice thick fish shaped slice of yellowtail, yet another dish bringing outstanding flavour combinations together.

The meaty portion of our omakase came with the arrival of seven raw cuts of perfectly marbled Wagyu beef beautifully displayed and labelled on a board with glowing charcoals arriving in hot pursuit to heat the built-in table grill.

We began with thinly sliced grilled beef tongue which we were instructed to dip in the accompanying salt and then lime juice – juicy, soft and richly flavoursome. Next, ribeye marinated in soy, garlic and sesame oil. This was professionally cooked for us at the table on a high heat until caramelised and slightly charred.   Once cooked it is dipped into truffled egg yolk and served on a small amount of Nanatsuboshi rice which serves as a palate cleanser.  A dish of divine melt in your mouth indulgence.

Negiyaki is a long thin slice of Wagyu beef from the thigh of the hind leg which came with a grape sized amount of homemade green onion and sesame oil sitting on top of the slices while it is grilled on the other side. The meat appears a slightly darker colour and has a slight game flavour. Rib Finger (aka Geta) and often under rated cut is a diced cut of meat from the ribs with tender tendons which are sliced through to render the fat. The cube is served in a lettuce leaf and dipped in a spicy miso sauce. Picanha, a rump cut with a thick fat cap cooked until crisp is served alongside perfectly medium-rare slices. At this point we took pause to just sigh and agree that we were having an extraordinary dining experience before we carried on with two more beef courses.

Kanpai Classic Soho London. Image credit It’s Me Louis Photography.

The red meat extravaganza ends with the arrival of Chicken Kamameshi Rice, a Kanpai Classic signature dish. The Nanatsuboshi rice is cooked until plump and glossy for about 30 minutes soaking in the flavours of chicken, ginger and spring onions cooked with it, and served with a ladle of bonito broth soup. To me, it was a cross between congee and Singapore’s unofficial national dish - Hainanese Chicken Rice. It is a flavoursome bowl of comfort food, ending the meal with what felt like a warm hug.

Dessert was a refreshing finish of pistachio and raspberry Mochi ice cream.

For lovers of red meat, it does not get better than this omakase menu at Kanpai Classic. A wagyu masterclass where each course is so beautifully explained. And in case you were wondering "Kanpai" means "cheers" in Japanese. After this experience, Kanpai Classic earns a big “Cheers!” from us.

 Location: 147-149 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WD  Instagram: @kanpaiclassic_london   Website:www.kanpaiclassic.co.uk.

Review by Natascha Milsom