Knightsbridge fine dining at Vatavaran review

Last week I found myself on Beauchamp Place to review fine dining Indian restaurant Vatavaran, just down the road from Harrods and the Victoria & Albert Museum. In its day Beauchamp Place (pronounced Bee-cham), was alive with visiting Hollywood types, eligible young bachelors, debutantes, pop stars, and visiting Hollywood types. Thestreet had me recalling the first time I lived in London with Beauchamp Place providing me with a few standout memories.

I first came to know the street because of Viscount Astor’s jewellery shop (now Anabel Astor, founder of the furniture company OKA). My boyfriend at the time had unexpectedly gifted me a pearl necklace with her classic bee pendant. I felt very posh and flattered by the gesture. Fast forward a few years I found myself at another Beauchamp Place store - Rigby & Peller, in search of undergarments and a garter for my wedding (albeit not to the “necklace” boyfriend). They famously provided bespoke undergarments for the females of the Royal Family. Not sure who the heck I thought I was shopping there; I was probably having one of my YOLO moments. But Beauchamp Place was most famously known for San Lorenzo restaurant, beloved byPrincess Diana and multiple celebrities, hence the paparazzi were more often than not camped outside.

Vatavaran, Knightsbridge. Image credit courtesy of Vatavaran.

Currently Beauchamp Place feels like it has passed its heyday, now a convenient thoroughfare for avoiding Knightsbridge traffic, the posher shops have left, and San Lorenzo has become an eye sore with no sign of its glory days having closed during the pandemic only to never reopen and became occupied by squatters. But Vatavaran arrived last November with a glowing new façade on an impressive townhouse looksset to do the heavy lifting to elevate the street once again together with councils plan to revamp the area. 

Renowned Chef Rohit Ghai and business partner Abhi Sangwan have joined forces to open Vatavaran, the newest luxury Indian dining destination in Knightsbridge last autumn, after launching Kutir (Chelsea in 2018) and Manthan (Mayfair, 2021). Chef Ghai has also worked at acclaimed restaurants Benares, Trishna, Gymkhana and Jamavar (earning a Michelin star here) so our expectations were high. The introduction on their website states they have taken inspiration from the Himalayas and will be “Taking your dining to new heights”, setting lofty expectations for their diners.

The Himalayan theme runs through the interiors of the restaurant set across four thoughtfully designed levels conceptualised by Abhi Sangwan and brought to life in collaboration with Collective Design studio and Forty-Eight Point One branding team. Vatavaran translates to“atmosphere” in Sanskrit. Beginning with a bar at the ground floor entrance “Valley Streams” to the mezzanine “Mountain ridges”, first floor “Forests” and the top floor “Summit” with the Shikhar Bar, a constellation-themed cocktail bar due to launch in June. Each area has a distinct feel. The mezzanine is the largest room with views to an open kitchen, decorated in hues of blue with a huge atrium skylight making the space light and airy. A few steps up to the next level leads to a smaller room with sash windows onto Beauchamp place is a more cosy and rustic space with a patchy, unfinished brick wall.

Vatavaran, Knightsbridge. Image credit courtesy of Vatavaran.

As I awaited my dining partner in the blue room with cerulean wallpaper of mischievous monkeys amongst pomegranate tree leaves, the waiter brought me my cocktail – “Nilima” - vodka,mint, butterfly pea flower, ginger adding the mix of lemonade, lemon juice & soda table side as the blue liquid magically transforms to pink.

My dining partner arrived and was very quickly drawn to the dining area on the next level. We politely requested to move where we found the décor more intimate and aesthetically pleasing to us both, with green hues and a touch of orange on the wallpaper, a rustic bare timber ceiling, and green leather chairs. Happily settled, she ordered a “Sehari”, a cocktail of tequila, passionfruit and ginger served in an elegant bamboo shaped glass. Cocktails are priced around the £15 mark which is mid-range pricing by London standards. A variety of poppadoms swiftly landed on the table with a trio of sauces to start as we perused the menu.

Hispi Cabbage with a creamy tahini and Salmon Tikka with Kokum beetroot garlic smooth puree. Vatavaran, Knightsbridge. Image credit MTotoe.

Our meal began with a bowl of Aloo Tikki piled high, a popular street food made of mashed potatoes, fried until crisp with tamarind and garnished with chutneys, yoghurt and onions. Vatavaran’s version refreshingly includes pomegranate and a green mint sauce and topped with fresh pea shoots. This dish was true comfort food. Goat Shami Kebab served on bakarkhani (a biscuit like flat bread) with roasted plum and black cardamom.

From the grill section we had the charred Hispi Cabbage with a creamy tahini, garlic sauce, with a pop of sweetness from the pomegranate seeds and a lovely crunch from a scattering of boondi (a popular Indian snack from crisp chickpea flour). I do love a wedge of grilled hispi cabbage, and this is probably one of the most delectable versions I’ve had. We also had the Salmon Tikka which sat on a delicate yet tasty Kokum beetroot garlic smooth puree, coconut, chutney and garnished with thin slivers of yellow heirloom beetroot another excellent marriage of flavours. 

At this point in our meal, I began to really appreciate theconsidered presentation of each dish with its contrast of colours and perfect placement of each element. You are eating with your eyes before you have even had your first mouthful. Also the level of spiciness of each dish is perfectly pitched with the spicier dishes giving a nice punch with each mouthful which recedes rapidly so even if you think you cannot really handle hot spice you could probably get away with it here.

Boneless Lamb Barbat and  Palak Paneer, made with spinach and fenugreek. Vatavaran, Knightsbridge. Image credit MTotoe.

For mains we had the boneless Lamb Barbat using 15 burnt Indian spices slowly cooked with onion, chilli, ginger and garlic paste and topped with crispy fresh coconut slices. My dining partner who is vegetarian, ordered the Palak Paneer, made with spinach and fenugreek and topped with flakes of crisp garlic. All served with rice, tadka dahl and Indian breads. The tadka dahl was deliciously rich and buttery.

Desserts included the Pineapple Coconut, which combined chutney, and a crumb of jaggery and coconut, as well as the Carrot Halwa Tart. All the flavours came together perfectly for each dish, but the Carrot Halwa Tart was the most unexpected dish using purple heirloom carrots served with rabri (a condensed mild with cardamom), pistachio, carrot curd and shards of almond brittle, topped with mini carrot madeleines, a very moreish dessert indeed.

There is certainly a penchant for decorating the plates with edible flowers having found them garnishing the Goat Kebab, the hispi cabbage and a single pansy on each of the desserts but when everything comes out looking this pretty on the plate - this is definitely not a complaint from me.

Pineapple Coconut and Carrot Halwa Tart.Vatavaran, Knightsbridge. Image credit MTotoe.

We were ordering from a Chef’s Selection Menu but 5 course tasting menus are also available at £75 or £70 for the vegetarian tasting menu as well as an a la carte menu. filled with some creative sounding dishes. Set lunch menus begin at £25 for 2 courses (Tuesday– Friday).

As we departed, we clocked some decks indicating there are probably nights when the  bar comes alive with a DJ and combined with the upcoming launch of Shikhar, their exclusive cocktail bar and members club, there could be some fun to be had here in the future. Overall, we highly recommend Vatavaran. The vibe is classy but relaxed, the service is warm, and the food – absolutely delicious.

Location:  14-15 Beauchamp Place, London SW3 1NQ.  Website:  vatavaran.uk  Instagram: @vatavaranlondon

Review by Natascha Milsom