Bombay Brasserie, Kensington review
Bombay Brasserie on Gloucester Road has been a well-known spot in Kensington since 1982, opening as one of London’s first fine-dining restaurants. It has been around so long that Bombay is now Mumbai (since 1996) but “Mumbai Brasserie “just does not have the same ring to it now does it? Its survival in a town like London is in itself a badge of honour. It has remained under the ownership of the luxury Taj Hotels group but these days it seems to fly under the radar. We dined here last week to see if it still sat firmly with the other fine Indian restaurants of London. Bombay Brasserie is like driving a reliable vintage car - it is elegant, has old school charm and has been around a while.
Image courtesy of Bombay Brasserie, Kensington
The restaurant is conveniently close to Gloucester Road Tube station, housed in a striking Victorian building. The entrance is through a dramatic back lit fretwork entrance screen with a circular foyer adorned with vintage petrol lanterns. As you continue you will arrive first in the bar of mirrored shelving with an eclectic mix of colonial-era framed black and white photos, antique wooden concertina screens, velvet and leather banquettes, relaxed lounge seating and lastly vintage spinning fans on the ceiling. I noticed the fans immediately (not a common site in London); they instantly transported me back to the tropics of Southeast Asia where I grew up, evoking an old-world charm.
The main dining room opens into a large, refined dining space, greeted by two brass peacock statues standing proudly breast to breast. There is a sense of occasion here with soaring high ceilings and sparkling chandeliers, and while it feelsgrand, it’s by no means stuffy. The warm decor includes Indian art, ornate carvings, decorative objects, British Raj–era dark wood furniture, and a piano. Tables are well spaced, accommodating intimate date nights in cosy curved booths or large multigenerational family gatherings. Beyond the main dining room lies a spacious conservatory-like terrace, featuring exposed metal framework, elegant murals and abundant hanging plants.
Image courtesy of Bombay Brasserie, Kensington.
Our ordering was taken out of our hands, with the staff thoughtfully catering for my vegetarian dining partner and me. We began with two round bowls, each set on round paper doilies on a white rectangular plate (perhaps they are staying intentionally old school-I haven’t seen a paper doily in a long while) one filled with Palak Patta Chaat- (crispy fried baby spinach, sweetened yoghurt, date and tamarind chutney) and Sindhi Sindhi Aloo Tuk Chaat (spiced Jersey potatoes, tamarind and dates) both garnished with finely diced tomato and onion and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. The variation of texture and depth of flavour made them a lovely combination to begin the meal.
More starters followed. For my vegetarian companion, a square of The Khubani Paneer Tikka arrived, with a nice char on the edges and a subtle sweetness from apricot chili jam, alongside Vegetable Rissois - a Portuguese influenced Goan spiced vegetable cake was topped with a somewhat unattractive squiggle of peri peri sauce. My chargrilled chicken and thyme kebab and Adraki lambchops infused with ginger were flavourful but perhaps too intense to enjoy without rice or naan. Next came a mini masala dosa and tandoori broccoli with bamboo palm heart on tahini yogurt for my vegetarian partner, while I received a single chargrilled jumbo Tandoori prawn - well balanced in flavour but difficult to cut and seemingly overcooked- alongside a piece of battered soft shell crab, along with coconut and tomato sambols both of which I felt lacked a freshness of flavour. If you like to eat with your eyes as well as your palate, I will say the plating of most of the dishes lacked flair and eye for detail hence didn’t quite marry up to the atmosphere of the room. At this point my enthusiasm was waning. The food does not excel beyond what you might find in your slightly above average local neighbourhood Indian restaurant.
Bombay Brasserie. Image credit MTotoe
Onto mains, where the Dal Makhani stood proud among others I’ve tasted this year, holding its own beautifully. The raw jackfruit and heirloom carrot sukke was a unique and tasty vegetarian dish. The other dishes of spinach, a chickpea dish Spice crusted Kingfish and Bhuna Gosht (spiced roasted lamb) were good but not memorable.
Indian desserts? Usually not my cup of chai, too sweet, too cloying, but this trio surprised me. The Ajmeeri coconut mousse burfi, made with evaporated milk, dry fruit and nutsand coconut cream was a first for me. It was quite close to a marshmallow in texture - I liked it! The mango fig kulfi contained chewy fig pieces which I thought married well. And the classic Indian dessert of Gulab Jamun was served slightly warm, soft and spongy, with a light syrup that could perhaps have been better infused with cardamom.
Cobra Coffee, Bombay Brasserie. Image credit MTotoe.
The absolute highlight was their signature Cobra Coffee for two (an Irish coffee of sorts but done with real flair). Lovingly prepared on the bar’s Cobra Coffee cart, sugar is caramelised to coat the rim and sides of a fluted glass, then freshly brewed coffee, brown sugar and whiskey are combined. The bar lights are dramatically dimmed, and flambéed cherry liqueur ispoured over a cobra-shaped orange peel to infuse the coffee. Once in the glass the coffee is topped with a lightly whipped cream. Truly delicious and an unforgettable experience and a proper finale to the night.
While this wasn’t the most memorable meal, the service was seamless, welcoming and attentive, nothing was too much trouble. The interiors are sublime; I just wish the food had reached the same heights.
Location: Bombay Brasserie, Opposite Gloucester Road Tube, Courtfield Rd, South Kensington, London SW7 4QH.Website: bombayb.co.uk Instagram: @bombaybrasserieSW7
Review by Natascha Milsom
