Platapian by Patara, Soho review

The Patara Group’s flagship branch originally opened circa 2005 in Soho and is now back on the scene refurbished and rebranded by Nam Parama Raiva, the niece of Khun Patara Sila the founder. The name Platapian is taken from a traditional woven barb fish made from palm leaves, the name symbolises abundance, prosperity and the passing of good fortune from one generation onto the next in Thai culture. 

For some reason I am finding the name difficult to remember but I can see myself simply telling people “There’s a great Thai restaurant on Greek Street in Soho, you should go.”  - Yes indeed, it is very good. Hopefully I can bestow some good fortune on you if I can successfully convince you to go with this review.

The interiors designed by Grid Soonthornpusit (Nam’s husband) and his design studio Grid & Co are elegant and comfortable, inspired by the tranquility of Thai riverside homes, the space is softly lit with pendant lights. At the heart of the restaurant stands a striking spirit house, a shrine built to honour and appease protective spirits. Photographs of Nam’s family line the walls, tracing the Raiva family journey through Thailand whilst shelves are lit and stocked with homemade pickles, ferments and sauces.

Platapian by Patara, Soho. Image credit MTotoe

There is a long bar counter which is perfect to pop in and try their interesting cocktails which use the vibrant flavours of the kitchen, including the tom yum-tini which I tried, made using Finlandia vodka, lime and bird’s eye chill. We also tried a refreshing Mocktail “Virgin patara passion” with passion fruit, lime and Fever-Tree lemonade served in a bamboo shaped glass. The other mocktails will have you feeling all tropical, containing ingredients like lemongrass, coconut water, lychee and kaffir lime. There are great snacks to accompany their cocktails. We tried their crispy chicken skin (a Thai version of the pork scratchings the brits enjoy at the pub – but better). They were light, perfectly crisp and served with garlic, slivers of kaffir lime leaf and a fresh lime wedge to squeeze on top. A more moreish bar snack than this would be hard to find. Reasonably priced too at £3.80 vs Speedboat’s version £5. (Speedboat - a much admired Thai restaurant in London).

The menu here is entirely different from the other Patara restaurants which can be found in Oxford Circus, Wimbledon, Knightsbridge and South Kensington. The menu here, created by Nam and Head Chef Phayom Phimkrua draws on recipes passed down by her aunts, mother, and grandmother as well as featuring some time-honoured family recipes.  The menu is diverse with regional influences of both Northern and Southern Thailand, from the bold, fiery flavours of the South to the delicate, aromatic dishes from the North.

Platapian by Patara, Soho. Image credit MTotoe

When ordering we decided to go with some of their recommended dishes which are flagged on the menu with their platapian fish shaped logo. We began with a couple of their smaller dishes.  Stuffed Snub Nose Chilli with Chicken & Shrimp and Spicy House-made Chilli Purée, filled with simple delicious ingredients and not too spicy. The chicken and shrimp filling are like what you would find in dumplings but instead stuffed into the chilli. The Tofu with garlic and chilli was a perfect texture, lightly salted and if you are not a fan of tofu this dish will make you a convert.

The Claypot section of the menu is not to be missed. The Braised Beef with Crispy Beef Fat is a winner of a dish and reminded me of a favourite family meal we used to have in Singapore at New Ubin Seafood where they do a steak served with rice cooked in beef fat that we all fight over. As a family we affectionately call it  “Heart Attack Fried Rice”. This is the closest thing to it and I can’t wait to come back with my whole family in tow. The Jumbo Crab with Crispy Lard was also a wonderful dish generously topped with beautiful tender crab meat.  For my vegetarian dining partner we ordered Okra, Mushroom & Crispy Tofu with Spicy Southern Style Curry Paste & Green Peppercorn – vegetarian or not this is a wonderfully delicious dish and can highly recommend it. Despite being a hound for spicy hot dishes I was really enjoying the menu combining northern and southern Thai food and appreciating the more subtle dishes.

Platapian by Patara, Soho. Image credit Steven Joyce

So far so perfect. Next it was on to dessert. Thai Mango & Sticky Rice is on the menu - a favourite of mine, so much so I had a go at making it a few weeks ago and I did an excellent job, even if I say so myself, but it is quite time consuming to make hence I can now see why it would be the most expensive dessert on the menu £14.95. I had ruled out ordering it as it is a dessert so many people are familiar with. I was in search of something more interesting and I found it in the Pandan Crème Brulée with Coconut Milk Ice Cream & Crispy Thai Roll Crêpe. Pandan is a flavour which brings me back to my childhood. It is such a unique and distinct flavour and its use in a crème brulée is clever. The quenelle of coconut ice cream on top just adds another level of genius to this dessert. We also tried a lighter dessert of Rambutan on Butterfly Pea Granita. Butterfly pea is an interesting ingredient that has a knack of turning things blue and the colour alters to a gorgeous purple when something acidic is added, hence the granita arrives bringing a pretty splash of purple to the table and topped with whole pieces of peeled rambutan. A lovely light dish to end the meal.

Pandan Crème Brulée with Coconut Milk Ice Cream & Rambutan on Butterfly Pea Granita. Platapian by Patara, Soho. Image credit MTotoe

I must add that I appreciate Platapian being Thai-owned. As someone who’s Eurasian, there’s always a part of me that feels a slight unease when food is cooked and sold commercially by those so far removed from its cultural origins.

I have yet to try the much talked about Singburi as I can’t seem to get a reservation for love or money but for now, I’m pretty content to have Platapian as a perfect alternative. The service is delightful, and it’s clear that everyone here is happy, enthusiastic, and proud of what they do — and rightfully so. If you are looking for Thai food and hospitality at its best, you will find it right here at Platapian in the heart of Soho.

Location: 15 Greek Street, London W1D 4DP Website:pataralondon.com Instagram:@platapian_soho  

Review by Natascha Milsom