Albers, De Beauvoir, Hackney review

Albers claims on its website to serve “Quite Good Grub”. I’ll begin by saying this is very much an understatement.

We headed here on a damp grey London day from Dalston Junction, taking the five-minute walk along Kingsland Road. Not the most salubrious high street, but behind the unimpressive storefronts lie some excellent bars, live music venues and restaurants. It has “real” London energy, layered, messy and authentic. We turned right at the corner where there is an impressive-looking hardware store, an Aladdin’s cave of DIY that unexpectedly served as our landmark as we headed towards Albers. Almost immediately the tempo slows. Suddenly you are in the leafy, tree-lined streets of De Beauvoir Town with its Georgian and Victorian houses and an atmosphere of calm, quiet elegance.

Albers, De Beauvoir. Image credit Natascha Milsom

The contemporary neighbourhood bistro sits on a quiet corner of Englefield Road. Its light-filled interior, with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooks a junction where you can watch daily life unfold in De Beauvoir and daydream about living in one of the charming houses nearby. No matter how grey the weather looks or feels outside, the interior remains airy, uplifting and bright, with a refreshing ambience. Abstract artwork stands out against the crisp white walls, while natural materials define the space: simple globe pendant lights, pale walls, honey-toned wooden tables, rustic bentwood bistro chairs, and a long upholstered bench running along the wall that softens the room. The result is an honest, tactile interior that feels comfortable rather than contrived - warm, relaxed and genuinely inviting.

Albers is named after founder Scott Pattinson’s dog, who was in turn named after the artist Joseph Albers, a nod to Scott’s previous life as an artist. This is very noticeably a restaurant concept that comes from the heart, and it shines through in every possible way. He has chosen well with the charming and welcoming Zac Spooner as his General Manager. Having previously managed Toklas Bakery, he brings with him warmth and Toklas bread, which takes pride of place at the top of the printed menu. Rightly so. It is very good bread indeed, served with a delicious smear of confit garlic and basil butter (it is as delicious as it sounds).

Albers, De Beauvoir. Image credit Natascha Milsom

There is some excellent cooking happening here from Chef Ania Stanton who has led the kitchen for less than six months but rounds out the team perfectly. She is not only producing beautifully balanced dishes, but with her finely honed skills is presenting perfectly cooked and beautifully plated dishes that evolve with the seasons.  

The menus are stylishly printed on thick translucent drafting paper, a detail that does not go unnoticed. The drinks menu is on bright orange card, o joyful pop of colour on the table. Ashort cocktail selection includes crowd favourites like a scotch bonnet Spicy Margarita, Alber’s Negroni, Piña Colada and Penicillin. The non-alcoholic beverages are no sideshow to the list with Botivo & Soda, Pear Iced Green Tea andPathfinder & Gingerbeer. (Pathfinder is a premium non-alcoholic hemp-based spirit, similar to Amaro that I had not come across before).  To accompany our meal, we chose a Lambrusco wine, a light bodied Italian sparkling wine which was a good overall match for the menu.

Albers, De Beauvoir. Image credit Natascha Milsom

While succinct the food menu it is well crafted and be sure not to miss the blackboard specials which offer additional dishes and cocktails, (more about the cocktail special later). The weekday lunch menu though smaller than the evening offering, remains refreshingly unpretentious and quietly inventive.

From the first bite of our starter, and while this is a neighbourhood restaurant (and sadly not mine) I would, with certainty, trek back here. While I occasionally treat myself and appreciate an elaborate tasting menu, the style of food here is how I would want to eat on the regular.

Albers, De Beauvoir. Image credit Natascha Milsom

The Scallop Crudo with a cucumber cream is an attractive starter served in its shell and was a generous, meaty and delicate dish. The venison main was sensational: thinly sliced and tender, cooked rare, resting on a bed of celeriac puree with a lardo jus, chives and tiny pieces of prune that added a subtle, perfectly judged sweetness.

Dessert brought a blackboard special of Taleggio panna cotta with melon and the toasted Banoffee Babka presented in the form of a nostalgic banana split topped with two bright red maraschino cherries which will instantly put smiles on to the faces of any diner. It is a dessert of pure fun and indulgence.

To pair with the desserts, we ordered the Melon Martinis From the specials board, served in an unpretentious small glass and garnished with a cube of melon on its rim. A revelation, perfectly chilled with a crisp and delicate melon taste, a cocktail that stayed on my mind days later. They deserve a permanent place on the drinks menu (selfishly, for my next visit).

Albers, De Beauvoir. Image credit Natascha Milsom

If you are lucky enough to pop in on a Thursday or Friday there is an excellent value “Workers Lunch” available with daily specials for £14 or £16 with a glass of wine. We chosethe mackerel. A perfectly cooked mackerel is a beautiful thing, the meat had a creamy almost buttery quality to it and was draped with a generous amount of Whey sauce and served with fennel, orange and radicchio to cut through the richness. The Workers lunch offers a choice of three dishes.

During a brief conversation as we left, we discovered that Chef Ania Stanton is just twenty-one years old. The disbelief was immediate. Her cooking shows remarkable confidence, clarity, and finesse for someone so young - she is unquestionably a talent to watch.

In a world that increasingly feels chaotic, we all find ourselves in search of places with good vibes only, and Alber’s certainly fits the bill. Park all your worries and the heaviness of the world - head over there as soon as you can, it’s the act of self-care you didn’t know you needed.

Location: 23A Engfield Road, London N1 4JX Opening hours: Tuesday 6pm - 9.30pm; Wed-Saturday Noon – 3pm,  Closed Sunday & Monday. Website: albers.london. Instagram: @albers.london

Review by Natascha Milsom