SACHI at Pantechnicon, London review: Matcha Tasting Menu

A visit to the salubrious neighbourhood of Belgravia is always a pleasure. Strolling along the stunning rows of immaculate white stucco homes, pristine window boxes to the garden squares and bougie boutique shopfronts, pubs and restaurants on Motcomb Street, Elizabeth Street and Eccleston Yards never fails to calm the mind.

Octopus Karaage with a matcha honey sauce and matcha salt. Image courtesy of SACHI London

This week we had the occasion to step into the imposing Pantechnicon Building on Motcomb Street - a former Arts & Crafts warehouse which houses the well-known Café Kitsuné, and SACHI on the rooftop. Having briefly poked my head in here a couple of years ago and on this visit, I immediately noticed there has been a rejigging of the space on the ground floor which now clearly separates the bustle of the cafe from the restaurant entrance. One is welcomed at the door and shown the lift which whisks you to the rooftop to a stunning light filled dining room resembling a very sophisticated conservatory with one side of glass doors and a pitched glass roof on a dark metal framework ceiling. As I took a glance across the aesthetically pleasing interiors, I could feel the stresses of the week melt away.

Across the bar, restaurant and terrace areas, seating feels unusually generous and relaxed, furnished with deep sofas, comfortable armchairs and soft cushions everywhere, and even the bar stools are upholstered and cushioned, so you never feel perched or rushed. Oversized paper lantern pendants bring a soft, sculptural rhythm to the space. Each fixture is drum-shaped, made from finely ribbed, translucent material that gently diffuses the light, creating an even, warm glow in the evenings while drawing the eye along the length of the room. The use of natural materials and thoughtful spacing, result in an atmosphere that’s refined but never stiff, polished enough for Belgravia, yet welcoming, cosy and effortlessly comfortable from the first drink to the last course.

Blankets are draped over chairs should the weather turn mild enough to fully open the accordion doors and connect the restaurant to the cosy terrace Servers glide through the room in soft khaki linen uniforms, blending seamlessly into the setting. Quite honestly, it felt like I was about to enjoy a spa day.  We were here to try the limited-edition Matcha Tasting Menu launched this week in partnership with ceremonial-grade matcha specialists SAYURI. Coming from a family of matcha drinkers I was intrigued to discover the possibilities of matcha beyond the cup.  The menu showcases Japan’s iconic tea across every course, including two cocktails: a Matcha Martini and a non-alcoholic Matcha Highball made with 0% Sipsmith gin. The latter was especially refreshing and would make an excellent summer drink to sip on the terrace. One cocktail is included in the £55 tasting menu. 

Aubergine Chazuke with matcha rice, edamame, matcha broth, shiso and matcha miso sauce. Image courtesy of SACHI London

The menu is curated by Head Chef Joonsu alongside SAYURI founder Yureeka, the three-course experience explores the depth, versatility and elegance of matcha.

Each course offers a choice of two dishes and as my dining partner is pescatarian we ordered both of each course. To start tender Octopus Karaage was served with a matcha honey sauce and matcha salt. The coating was light and the octopus supremely tender. The mixed Vegetable Kakiage is the alternative and was probably our least favourite dish of the day though the bar was high.  

Salmon Chazuke, matcha broth, ikura, matcha onigiri and shiso. Image courtesy of SACHI London

For mains we tried both Salmon Chazuke with matcha broth, ikura, matcha onigiri and shiso, and Aubergine Chazuke with matcha rice, edamame, matcha broth, shiso and matcha miso sauce. The aubergine was full of flavour, melted in the mouth and was utterly moreish. In both dishes, the rice was enhanced by the flavour of seaweed, dustings of match powder and the residual flavours of either the salmon or the aubergine. A pot of matcha broth is poured tableside and left for diners to add as much as they desire. This final flourish elevates the flavour of the rice to another level of comfort – I was wanting to go again as I consumed my last grain of rice.

For the most part, the matcha elements throughout the menu are subtle, yet diners can take comfort in knowing they’re enjoying an ingredient celebrated for its health benefits, from antioxidant properties to supporting metabolism and brain function. What’s not to love?

Matcha Chocolate Tart. Image courtesy of SACHI London

The menu finishes with a Matcha Chocolate Tart for dessert.An outstanding dessert ensuring we ended lunch on a high. Never have I ever had a tart case this delicious and light - firmyet yielding immediately under the gentler pressure a spoon. The centre is equally light and indulgent, without tipping into the cloying sweetness that plagues some desserts. Awonderfully smooth quenelle of Matcha ice cream crowns the tart.

While the Matcha Tasting Menu is short lived we hope they will reprise it at some point giving opportunity for more people to give it a try. If matcha is not for you, Sachi’s regular menu and the excellent £32 set lunch continue to run alongside.

If this spot is this good in the winter, I can’t wait to visit in the summer.

Date: Available from Monday 26 January (two weeks only). Location: SACHI London, 19 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LB. Price: £55 per person (three-course menu). Website:  sachirestaurants.com. Instagram: @sachi.london

  Review by Natascha Milsom