Review: Claro in St James’s

Claro is located at the southern end of Regent Street serving a menu best described as Eastern Mediterranean with Middle Eastern Influences. This month Claro’s autumn menu has launched using ingredients sourced from county Berkshire giving diners a special farm to table experience. We were treated to a dinner here to discover the new dishes and more!

Image courtesy of Claro in St James’s

Claro sits in an elegant space of grand proportions: high ceilings and tall arched windows of what was once a bank. The flickering candle lit tables with slick translucent cylinder drum chandeliers suspend over the evening’s diners give the room sense of occasion. A large bar-counter to the right of the entrance provides a focal point for the room and the opportunity to sit in front of the semi-open kitchen, always a coveted position for foodies and solo diners. One end of the dining room has a cosy earthy feel with exposed brick.

“Claro” means clear, reflected in a simple yet bold menu serving a great mix of salads, seafood, and grilled dishes, all designed for sharing, with outstanding vegetarian options too. Dishes are all served from the heart with passion and clean delicious flavours. Since opening its doors in October 2024, Chef Shadi Issawy has headed up the kitchen for Chef Patron Ran Schmueli who’s first Claro is located in Tel Aviv.

Image courtesy of Claro in St James’s

The menu at Claro is filled with luscious sounding dishes which will have you wishing you were in a big group to try as many things as possible. Our evening started in the bar with a Lamb Cigars - a pastry cigar filled with a spiced lamb mince and a simple yoghurt and tahini dip, incredibly fresh Sardine Bruschetta with pickled chilli on sour cream filling, one of the classiest bruschetta I’ve ever had, subtle, not too fishy and delicately balanced. Lastly, Shrimp Falafel, a perfectly shaped bite. Not being a fan, in general, of falafel, I have to say this was a special combination which worked a treat. Upstairs Claro has private dining areas and these three bites would make wonderful canapés if you were to host and evening here.

Once sat at the table the Kubaneh bread (a cross between a croissant and a brioche) was served with fresh grated tomato and zhoug. The bread reminded me of the moreish Japanese-] Hokkaido milk bread that has been cropping up recently in London’s finest dining establishments. Easily torn into four portions we nearly fought over the left-over piece it was so good. The Taste of Claro dish is a fabulous group sharing dish to start, nibbly and convivial includes, Frena Bread, Green Tahini & Aubergine, Tzatziki & Tumeric cucumber, Labneh & Harissa, fresh pickled vegetables, pickled chilli andmatbucha (a very tasty North African condiment made of slow cooked tomatoes, red capsicum, garlic and onions).

Claro in St James’s. Image credit Natascha Milsom

Crudo dishes followed - Venison tartar served with potato pavé cacio e pepe. The potato pave was how I imagine a Potato Dauphinois would taste if cut into small cubes and fried until crisp. A genius alternative to chips or toasted bread.   The quality of their produce shone yet again with the Yellowtail crudo served with freekeh tabbouleh, yoghurt, pistachios and a simple tomato salsa.

The hearty dishes of pork chop from Cherry Hill in Berkshire with parsley cream and Windsor apple salsa and Seared Octopus with Merguez Sausage and Chickpeas are both must haves. But as we go into game season it would be remiss of me not to mention the Venison Tomahawk of earthy flavours and refined rusticity served with glazed carrots and Oregano Bearnaise. For vegetarians the Freekeh Spaghetti with leeks, cauliflower mushrooms and Spenwood cheese from Village Maid, Berkshire and Okra; smoked labneh, tomatoes, kadosh cheese were standouts.

We do love a chocolate mousse scooped out of a large bowl table side. Here the mousse was light as a feather, yielding with the gentlest touch. I suspect it was pure cream and dark chocolate which sets it apart from others.

Claro in St James’s. Image credit Natascha Milsom

A testament to the desert selection, despite being full to the brim we all managed to devour the deserts. As the sticky toffee date pudding arrived one diner mentioned not having ever liked the pudding but then proceeded to polish it of like she had just arrived after starving all day.

I don’t know what it is I love so much about restaurants bringing a large bowl of chocolate mousse to the table and scooping it into a dish. It is such an old school, nostalgic thing to do and charms me every time. Claro’s mousse is a very light and airy dark chocolate mousse topped with a large shard of sesame tuille. The apple and pear sorbet sounds so simple yet was so smooth to almost taste creamy and was a perfect light finish to our feast.  

Claro in St James’s. Image credit Natascha Milsom

Cocktails are top notch here too – the Pomegranate Sour was right up my street with sapling gin, pomegranate and sumac syrup, lemon, and pomegranate sherbet. The wine list offering is global (but mainly European) and huge, with over 200 wines. Wine prices begin around the £50 mark but one can be very extravagant indeed here, Claro is in St James’s after all.

Overall, the really was not a single dish to fault at Claro and I will remember the freshness of their ingredients for a long time to come. On that note I was looking for a reason to return. I gave the menus on their website a once over and their weekend brunch menu definitely caught my eye, featuring breakfast dishes with a twist - Guilty Pleasure Toast – Ham, Monterey Jack cheese, cornflake crust, Benedict Burek – a homemade burek, poached egg, hollandaise sauce and wild mushrooms, and an irresistible Crab Omelette gives me reason to head here for breakfast as soon as possible.

Menus: A la Carte, Set Lunch 2 or 3 course £28 or £36, Pre theatre £38 or £46 from 5pm-6.30pm Location:12 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4U. Website: claro-london.com Instagram:  @clarolondon

  Review by Natascha Milsom