Review: Sova, a wine & vinyl bar, Notting Hill

This weekend, we paid a visit to Sova, the latest addition to Notting Hill’s thriving culinary scene and a new venture from the team behind ZIMA. Sova describes itself as a restaurant, wine and vinyl bar specialising in wines from Eastern and Central Europe. The food menu has been created by Moldovan chef Denis Calmis and features classic European dishes with an Eastern European twist. The extensive wine list has been curated by sommelier Cristian Vega (ex-Wilton’s, Pollini, Le Boudin Blanc) and is at the core of the restaurant’s identity. In fact, the name “sova” translates to “owl” in several Slavic languages, and nods to the well-informed nature of the wine list. 

Sova, Notting Hill. Image credit Rebecca Hope

The restaurant’s exterior is warm and inviting, painted an earthy olive green. Inside, the combination of dark wood panelling, low lamp lighting and alcoves filled with vinyl, ceramics, art books and liquors immediately creates an intimate, sophisticated atmosphere. While the space is small (in total it seats 40), diners and drinkers can choose to sit at wooden tables, perch on stools along the statement marble bar, or set up in the window. We opted for the sunlit window seats, watching the world go by while soaking up the atmosphere within. 

Sova, Notting Hill. Image credit Rebecca Hope

Sova’s menu is designed for sharing, so we did just that. To start, we whet our appetites with a stack of locally sourced sourdough from the popular Notting Hill Bakery and a large dollop of seaweed butter on the side. Sova aims to source seasonal produce from British suppliers, while bringing in specialist ingredients from Eastern Europe. We paused to thumb through the wine list, and were blown away by its breadth and depth. Sommelier Cristian Vega has a passion for low-intervention winemaking which was evident in the prominence of skin-contact, pét-nat and orange wine options. Lesser-known wine regions are at the fore of this menu, from Hungarian Riesling to Serbian Pinot Grigio and Slovenian Malvasia. We chose a crisp and fruity Georgian Tbilvino Rkatsiteli, made from one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. It complemented our next dishes beautifully. 

Sova, Notting Hill. Image credit Rebecca Hope

For the starter course, we opted for raw tuna served with adjika, diced cucumber, fennel and capers, as well as beetroot croquettes. The croquettes were a highlight, beautifully plated in a subtle walnut and saffron emulsion, and lavishly topped with parmesan. The tuna resembled a tartare, but the sharp, crunchy elements of cucumber and fennel gave it a cleaner, fresher character than the traditional dish.

For our mains, we chose the crispy sea bass and the whisky and honey-roasted baby chicken from a compact but well-considered selection of four dishes (one vegetarian, one fish and two meat). The skin of the sea bass was as crispy as promised, and while the portion was small, it lay on a generous bed of puréed garden peas, punctuated by citric notes of grapefruit. The glaze of the chicken was sweet and smoky, balanced by the sharper flavours of the green salsa and diced cucumber. 

Salted dark chocolate mousse with sea buckthorn. Sova London, Notting Hill. Image credit Sofia Carierra-Wham.

Finally, the star of the show was an indulgent scoop of salted dark chocolate mousse, sitting in a pool of tangy sea buckthorn. It rounded off a well-balanced meal filled with fresh ingredients and bold flavour combinations. 

Beyond the food and wine, Sova has clearly put thought into its musical identity. The vinyl-led soundtrack, partially curated with help from Rough Trade, is complemented by a roster of guest DJs throughout the week. The music hits just right, there when you want it, easy to talk over when you don’t, so Sova works for everything from a low-key catch-up to a date, or a solo glass at the bar. We’ll be back for the mousse, the music, and the ongoing education in Eastern European wine.

Location: 9 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill, London W11 2EE. Website: sova.london. Instagram: @sova.london

Review by Sofia Carierra-Wham