Isla at The Standard London review

The Standard Hotel is one of those places that feels effortlessly cool from the moment you walk in. Housed within a beautifully restored brutalist building overlooking St Pancras Station, it combines mid-century modernism, 1970s glamour, and slightly eccentric residential styling. The interiors, designed by Shawn Hausman, are a masterclass in detail, featuring layers of shag-pile textures, lacquered surfaces, geometric prints, warm timber, vintage Italian influences, and saturated colours. The result is playful, stylish, and endlessly photogenic. There is simply so much to love about the design here.

Isla at The Standard London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London.

On the ground floor of the hotel is Isla, now a neighbourhood wine bar leaving behind its fine-dining past and launching a more casual menu of wholesome, tasty dishes. The interior space of the restaurant opens onto a leafy terrace enclosed by a contemporary glass structure that shelters guests from the elements while allowing a light breeze in. A glass roof frames views of the hotel’s striking façade and, on a good day, blue skies above. Well protected from the weather, the space offers the pleasures of outdoor dining year-round. By evening, fairy lights and comfortable seating create an atmosphere where after-work drinks can drift into dinner.

Terrace, Isla at The Standard London. Image courtesy of Isla at The Standard London.

This week we visited Isla to sample the new menu. We began with the courgette fritti with kumquat – lightly battered and crisp with a light dusting of lemon zest. A halved kumquat is served on the side to squeeze over the courgette. Anchovies have made a comeback on menus across the city, and we are not mad about it, especially when done as well as Isla’s stracciatella with anchovy toast. The creamy, gentle stracciatella matched with the salty umami of anchovy is a combination worthy of a round of applause. Just be sure to order one portion per person, you will not want to share.

Stracciatella with anchovy toast and grilled Scottish langoustines. Isla at The Standard London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London.

From the small plates, the grilled Scottish langoustines were another highlight, sweet, succulent, and full of flavour. They are worth extracting every last morsel from the shells. Diners are thoughtfully provided with a seafood cracker and lobster fork to make the job a little easier.

For the main course, the lemon sole was perfection. Expertly filleted and served with brown butter, capers, and blood orange segments – a perfect sweet, acidic, and salty combination. The matchstick potato frites are head-turners, arriving piled Everest-high in a bowl. The side of radicchio salad with Cashel Blue cheese was a generous portion and well dressed, although both the frites and the salad slightly lacked salt. Still, it is always preferable to add salt than to wish it had been used more sparingly.

Lemon sole served with brown butter, capers, and blood orange segments. Aside of radicchio salad with Cashel Blue cheese and matchstick potato frites. Isla at The Standard London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London.

To end the meal, we had an incredibly tasty chocolate and hazelnut torte with crème fraîche and a perfect summer dessert of Yorkshire rhubarb with stem ginger ice cream, served with a delicious almond tuile on top. For those looking to linger a little longer, there is also a selection of British and Irish cheeses that would pair beautifully with any remaining wine. 

Chocolate and hazelnut torte with crème fraîche. Isla at The Standard London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London.

The drinks offering includes four signature cocktails, four “No & Low” alcohol options, and a comprehensive wine list showcasing distinctive European and British producers. Prices are on the higher side, with bottles starting at £45, which feels somewhat at odds with the restaurant’s relaxed neighbourhood positioning. However, that should not deter you. Isla is a beautiful spot in which to settle down for an aperitivo, a leisurely dinner, and an enjoyable evening.

Location: The Standard, 10 Argyle Street, London NW1 2ST. Opening hours: 5pm–11pm daily. Website: standardhotels.com Instagram: @isla.london; @thestandardlondon

 Review by Natascha Milsom