TOZI Restaurant Victoria Review

TOZI, derived from the affectionate Venetian slang for “a close-knit group of friends,” is the brainchild of an Italian trio that met while opening Shoreditch House under the Soho House Group. In 2013, Chef Maurilio Molteni, fresh from his time as Head Chef at Shoreditch House and developing the menu at Cecconi’s, opened the first TOZI restaurant in London. He was joined by Stefano Meloni and Marco Bullegas as restaurant manager and bar manager, respectively. Together, they created something special.

TOZI Restaurant, Victoria. Image credit Justin De Souza.

Molteni, originally from the Lake Como region in North-Western Italy, has infused TOZI’s menu with the bold, fresh flavours of his homeland.  While there are three TOZI restaurants -a second location in Amsterdam and a more casual spot in London at the art’otel in Battersea, offering pizza and cicchetti (small savoury snacks), —expansion has never been a top priority, so I certainly don't see TOZI as a chain restaurant as each restaurant has its own identity.

TOZI Restaurant and Bar in Victoria is definitely one to keep on your radar. This isn’t your typical cosy family-run Italian joint. It’s a spacious, split-level space with soaring ceilings, herringbone wooden floors, and walls lined with black-and-white retro photographs of Italy, along with an open view into an immaculate kitchen. The service is friendly and with no sign of fine dining stuffiness, yet the food is refined enough to make it feel special. Just a short walk from Victoria Station, it’s an ideal spot to meet someone commuting in or out of the area.

TOZI Restaurant, Victoria. Image credit Justin De Souza.

The menu is a rotating celebration of seasonal Italian dishes. Among the “Raw” options of Beef Carpaccio and Tuna tartare, the Sicilian Prawns Carpaccio with burrata and lemon oil , stood out as a unique dish not often seen on menus and was an excellent choice for those who might prefer more robust flavours. We polished off every last bite. From the “Fritti” section, we tried the Cauliflower Fritti with black truffle mayonnaise. Though not the prettiest looking dish, I probably would have liked to see it topped with chopped flat leaf parsley for a little extra flair. Burrata with roasted aubergine, dried tomatoes, and basil pesto was a generous portion with high-quality burrata and fresh, vibrant flavours.

Stefano Eloni has curated an additional unique wine list for the month of March featuring small-batch producers and rare finds focusing on the region of Sicily. We paired our starters with the “Idda Bianca” made from the native Sicilian grape Carricante, which has been grown on Mount Etna for over a millennium. It offered a distinct volcanic minerality, with green apple and peach notes on the palate and a lingering finish—a perfect match for the meal.

Buffalo ricotta ravioli with black truffle.

When it comes to pasta, TOZI delivers the classics, like hearty ragùs, lobster linguine, and fresh Devon crab. But it’s the Buffalo Ricotta Ravioli with black truffle that’s a must-order dish. It’s buttery, indulgent, and the strong truffle aroma hits you as soon as it lands on the table. Since girolles are in season, I opted for the Maccheroni with duck and girolles ragout, smoked ricotta— a wonderfully robust dish paired with the vibrant ruby-red Perricone “Pietraissu” wine from the heart of Sicily. The ripe red fruit aromas of the wine perfectly complemented the dish. You are in safe hands here with the wine recommendations.

Desserts are most definitely not an afterthought. There are not many Italian restaurants that would omit the ever-popular Tiramisu and it is no exception here, the Pistachio Tiramisu takes the crown—light, creamy, and perfectly textured, topped with a sprinkling of toasted pistachios for crunch. It’s one of the best I’ve ever had.

TOZI is a restaurant for all. For theatre goers (Hamilton is showing nearby), casual enough to come with children and family yet elegant enough for business, generous menu choices for vegetarians and special occasions.  I would have to return to be sure, but I sense TOZI is the sort of restaurant that can be relied upon to consistently come up with the goods:  authentic Italian food, a carefully considered wine list, and welcoming, friendly service in a relaxing, comfortable space. Buon appetito! 

Location: TOZI, 8 Gillingham Street, London SW1V1HJ. Opening hours: Tuesday - Friday 12.00 - 9.30pm, Saturday 12.30 - 9.30pm. Website: tozirestaurant.co.uk. Instagram:@tozirestaurant.

Review by Natascha Milsom