Bistro Sablé, Islington Review
The hospitality industry in London is brave. With new restaurants opening weekly, foodies flock in, racing to be first, but more often than not, once they have satiated their curiosity, they are never to be seen again. Bistro Sable is an exception. Diners will return again and again like loyal homing pigeons.
The Noble Inns collection of pubs and restaurants includes the award-winning Pig & Butcher up the hill on Liverpool Road in Islington and n early November they reopened the site formerly known as The Smokehouse as a classic French bistro, The evolution of this charming neighbourhood spot was executed with multiple trips to the revered flea markets of Paris ensuring that Bistro Sablé looks as French as it tastes. The 65-seater lateral restaurant is spread across two areas wrapping around the central bar.
Image courtesy of Bistro Sablé, Islington
My visit took place shortly before Christmas. As I waited for my guest in the bar facing the entrance I observed diners as they arrived. Some regulars, some new. I could visibly see smiles emerge on their faces as they scanned the warmth of the room. As you enter an open fire crackled to one side in an area with five bare tables except for single flickering candles perfect for a simple tipple and a light bite.
Having travelled to Stockholm frequently, I noticed there is barely a restaurant in the entire city without candles on theirtables, and I’ve come to truly appreciate the ambience they instantly create. Unless you’re a born safety officer like my husband, who sits perpetually on edge, convinced that one accidental hand gesture could burn the whole building to the ground, the gentle flicker of candlelight is wonderfully relaxing.
The restaurant continues around the horseshoe shaped bar where the tables are set with white tablecloths and mismatched chairs and vintage posters adorn the walls, while chalkboards highlight the not to be missed daily specials. Another open fireplace welcomes diners as they approach the kitchen, adorned with copper pans. And while the winter chill lingers, the bistro’s spacious terrace promises a delightful retreat come warmer months, with its greenery and twinkling lights.
Image courtesy of Bistro Sablé, Islington
The menu leans into the deep comfort of French cooking. Swiftly after we were seated, we were treated to crusty bread with perfectly salted butter and a small bowl of crudités with salami. We immediately felt we are in good hands and the outside world’s troubles slip away. Classics are done beautifully here, from rich pork & duck rillettes served simply with cornichons, Dijon mustard and toast, to a perfectly risen baked cheese soufflé. For mains we had an elegant Dover sole meunière and the melt-in-your-mouth star of the evening, “Bœuf Bourguignon with pancetta” accompanied by a silky pomme purée and an additional side order of tasty French beans in garlic butter. The Boeuf Bourguignon, a deeply comforting classic, was truly exceptional. The sauce had a deep rustic elegance to it that can only come from patient slow simmering. As we worked through the dish, we discovered pieces of sweet carrot and earthy mushrooms and cubes of wonderfully tender beef all while the scent of Provençal herbs wafted through the air. As much as I would like to come back and explore the other dishes on the menu, I think it is unlikely, as the Boeuf Bourguignon is set to remain my go to from now until eternity.
Image courtesy of Bistro Sablé, Islington
For those craving hearty meat cuts the specials board offered a Côte de Boeuf or a Chateaubriand for two. with the bistro’s own aging and drying cabinet ensuring top-quality beef which is lovingly grilled over their wood fire. Head sommelier, Alex Corvez ohas curated a wine list offering bold reds, refreshing whites and of course rosé in varying measures. 95% of the French wine list is available in flexi-form, from a glass of 75ml & 125ml or by carafe or bottle.
We finished on a high with the 70% Xoco chocolate mousse, perfectly paired with what tasted like gourmet preserved Amarena cherries (a dynamite combination) and an order of a half dozen freshly baked, still-warm madeleines. The favourite classic French dessert of tarte tatin will often appear on the specials board - not to be missed.
Image courtesy of Bistro Sablé, Islington
Not only is the menu filled with delicious French food it is also very reasonably priced. A negroni or the freshly baked half dozen Madeline’s are each £5. We recommend getting there toute suite!
For our FLOLondon readers you can combine dining here with a visit to the Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art housed in an elegant Georgian townhouse. The Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art is worth visiting for its rare and beautifully curated insight into Italy’s 20th-century artistic movements, especially Futurism and Metaphysical art.
Location: 63–69 Canonbury Rd, Islington London, N1 2DG Opening hours: Closed Mondays, Tue-Fri – Midday-3pm; 6pm - 11pm. Saturday Midday - 11pm; Sunday Midday- 10pm. Website: bistrosable.co.uk Instagram: @bistrosable
Review by Natascha Milsom
