The Coach House, Derby review

If you have read our Derby Culture Guide, you’ll know that a weekend spent in England’s quietly revolutionary city may not be such an unusual proposition for the culturally inclined. Set on the River Derwent at the edge of the beautiful Peak District, it is compact, walkable and rich in stories. From Derby Cathedral to the brilliant Museum of Making, and slightly further the Peaks and their great country houses, there is so much to explore. But where to lay your head after a day of gallery-hopping and pounding the cobbles to prepare yourself for one in the great outdoors? The Coach House is a boutique guest house situated perfectly, just north of the City Centre, next to the charming Darley Park and five minutes’ walk from Darley Abbey with its riverside bars and restaurants. A home from home, it’s within easy reach of the Peak District, Chatsworth House or, for those other types of thrill seeker, Alton Towers.

Photo credit The Coach House

Stay

While we often review much larger hotels or resorts, when in a place like Derby it makes sense to stay somewhere close to the city’s heart and history. And we love a hotel with heritage. Built as Mile Ash House in 1860, it started as a gentleman's residence together with the coach house and stables that still remain. The house was originally owned by the Reverend Walter Weston who among other sporting achievements became known as ‘the father of mountaineering in Japan.’

Bathroom at The Coach House. Photo credit Tani Burns

The Coach House is boutique in the ultimate sense. With just three individually designed rooms across the main house and three in the stables building, it can really feel like you have the whole place to yourself. Charmingly eclectic and whimsical in decor, the huge and comfortable beds and bathtubs make a night in the perfect recipe for R&R.

Bedroom at The Coach House. Photo credit Tani Burns

Do

As Derby is a walkable city, it is possible to fit quite a lot in a day. Start at the Museum of Making, a contemporary space located in a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is widely regarded as the place of the world’s very first factory. The museum today continues to celebrate what catalysed an industrial boom throughout Britain and shaped Derby as a city of making and creativity, from largescale textile production to Toyota and Rolls-Royce. Multi-arts venue Derby Quad is also worth a visit for its thought-provoking exhibitions from emerging and established artists, often with an experimental edge. Particularly unmissable is Quad-based FORMAT International Photography Festival, drawing photographers and audiences from around the world to the city.

Museum of Making. Photo credit Tani Burns

 Looking even further back into the city’s rich history, on to Derby Museum & Art Gallery, home to the world's largest collection of works by British Enlightenment artist Joseph Wright of Derby (1734 – 1797), as well as the Hanson Logboat: a massive, 3,400-year-old boat carved from a single 10-metre tree trunk found in the region. And it would be a crime not to stop in at Derby Cathedral. While its Tudor tower still stands, its 1725 redesigned by celebrated architect James Gibbs was transformative, , moving away from dark, intricate, and shadowed Medieval spaces to clear glass windows and entirely white and cream interiors that intentionally flood the building with natural light.

Derby Cathedral. Photo credit Tani Burns

 

Eat & Drink

Breakfasts are something to look forward to at The Coach House, with made-to-order dishes ranging from your classic Full English / Veggie Full English to smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on bagel, or, my favorite, ‘The Green One’ (with bacon on the side). With so few rooms, the breakfast room feels particularly welcoming, as are the serving staff. For those who prefer, a plethora of local-interest books are available to peruse.

Breakfast room at The Coach House. Photo credit Tani Burns

 At the Coach House, there is no staffed bar, but one on the ground floor that operates by an honesty code – take what you wish and simply make a note for it to be added to your bill. Snacks such as pretzels and freshly homemade brownie squares are complimentary throughout the day and night.

Breakfast at The Coach House. Photo credit Tani Burns

As a boutique guest house, there is no restaurant on site, but there is plenty nearby to satisfy all cravings. A star of our weekend was Lorentes, an absolutely gorgeous riverside Spanish restaurant. While the tapas menu is overwhelmingly extensive, we went outside of our standard picks and were elated by every choice.

Lorentes Darley Abbey. Photo credit Tani Burns

Expect all the classics, from Patatas Bravas, Gambas al Ajillo and Chorizos a la Miel to the most heavenly Basque-inspired baked Manchego cheesecake…alongside extraordinary specials such as the aubergine‘Lorentes Pisto.’ With two local addresses always fully booked, it’s not hard to see why this place is so popular. In the winter months, its cozy, buzzy ambience makes you feel as though you’ve been whisked away to a bodega in Seville. We can’t wait to visit again for a long riverside lunch on a balmy summer evening.

Homemade brownies at The Coach House. Photo credit TaniBurns

Rev. Walter Weston’s book “Japan” at The Coach House. Photo credit Tani Burns

Explore  

Darley Park is on The Coach House’s doorstep, a riverside expanse of open greenery, a delightful trail all the way down to the city. While exploring the park, be sure to spend time at Hydrangea Derby, a fascinating garden that homes the largest collection of hydrangeas in Britain – and the third-largest in the entire world. Visitors from around the world come daily to the garden, and it’s clear to see why.

Hydrangea Derby. Photo credit Tani Burns

Or, explore by water with a riverboat cruise narrated humorously and informatively by the one and only David Suchet. The journey starts and ends at the Museum of Making, taking a course north through the park and back again in an hour and half.

Photo credit The Coach House

Getting there  

The nearest major train station to The Coach House is Derby, which is just a ten-minute drive away. Trains from London go regular to and from Euston or St Pancras International, and take around an hour and a half. If you prefer to drive and make the most of the scenery of the beautiful region, this takes between three and three-and-a-half hours on a normal day.

Price

Rates vary depending on the season. King rooms start from £190 per night. Book now.

The Coach House, 185A Duffield Rd, Darley Abbey, Derby DE22 1JB. For more information visit coachhousederby.com

By Tani Burns