Review: Le Nusa – Modern Indonesian restaurant, Strand, London

Having lived and worked in Bali at hotel in Bali a couple of decades ago I was delighted to discover London's latest Indonesian restaurant, hoping for some nostalgia of the good old days with every bite. 

Le Nusa is the brainchild of Indonesian celebrity couple Raffi Ahmad and Nagita Slavina, an actor-singer-entrepreneur with 74 million Instagram followers and his actress wife. In London, those names may not mean much. But if one is tempted to dismiss this as vanity dining dressed up in batik, don’t. Le Nusa has credentials that extend beyond its owners’ fame, and the food speaks confidently for itself.

Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image courtesy of Le Nusa

Le Nusa opened oddly in Paris first, (which explains the “Le”), then Jakarta to its cuisine’s roots and has now arrived in London on The Strand, directly opposite the magnificent Gothic Revival facade of the Royal Courts of Justice. It’s a charming setting. Spread across two floors, the ground floor space is intimate and overall emanates understated elegance, woven batik textiles drape the middle of the room where the stairs lead to the lower dining area, classic Indonesian-influenced paintings adorn the walls, and the intricate craftsmanship of suntiang (traditional golden headdresses) glows on the back wall. The cutlery handles are silhouettes of Wayang Kulit (Indonesian shadow puppets) and half height wood paneling and floors add warmth, creating cultural depth without tipping into theme-park territory. It is, genuinely, a beautiful space. I personally preferred the space upstairs, particularly if you are fortunate enough to land a table by the window overlooking the Courts of Justice. Downstairs is double the size and works well for larger groups. The space is well lit for daytime dining, but a touch too bright for my liking in the evening - though I suspect that minor annoyance would abate as the room fills and bustles with the chatter of diners.

Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image courtesy of Le Nusa

The concept is billed as “Indonesian bistronomy”, a phrase that could easily set alarm bells ringing, but in practice means something sensible. Traditional Indonesian food is communal by nature, served family-style at the centre of the table, generous and unfussy. Here, that spirit is preserved but reframed. The format follows, starters, main, and desserts which I thought might dilute its authenticity, but dishes arrive plated with care and precision, borrowing a “light touch” French technique while keeping Indonesian flavours firmly at the heart of every plate. Dishes are drawn from across the Indonesian archipelago from North Sumatra, Central Java, Bali and Betawi.

Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image courtesy of Le Nusa

The menu has some Indonesian favourites like Gado-Gado, a mixed vegetable salad of tofu, tempeh tossed in an aromatic peanut and sweet soy sauce, Rendang (slow cooked beef simmered in coconut milk) and Bakso (a meatball soup).

The manager Fyrza insisted we try the Bakwan Goreng -crisp vegetable fritters with sweet soy-chilli. The treacly sweetness of the soy with chopped shallots and chilli make a perfect accompaniment with a satisfying spicy kick. The Udang Jeruk Bali followed prawns with pomelo and lime in a sweet soy dressing, bright and clean without being sharp. Pomelo will be a discovery for some - a citrus fruit that tastes like a cross between a grapefruit and a sweet orange. Not an easy peeler with its thick white bitter rind but here all the had work is done for you.

Bakso, Le Nusa, Strand London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London

In Indonesia one is always on the lookout for the “best” Bakso- a bowl of clear beef broth with springy meatballs, usually from a street vendor or a “warung” (a small family-owned restaurants). It’s nice to see this comfort food humbly on the menu here. The broth is poured at the table though it could have done with a heavier sprinkling of white pepper. A hard-boiled egg wrapped in the meatball mixture and two sheets of fried tempeh were clever additions.

The Ikan Saus Santan, pan-seared sea bass from Central Java, served with tomato, chayote, carrot and a spicy smoked coconut milk sauce, was a highlight. The smokiness of the sauce had real depth, and the fish was cooked to perfection. I noticed the presentation of dishes have changed since opening (as we had referred to images online when deciding what to order). Having only been open since late January, I suspect they will continue to refine the menu - and what is already delicious food will only continue to get better.

The Ikan Saus Santan. Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image courtesy of Le Nusa

The Bebek Sambal Andaliman - duck breast with green chilli, shallot and the distinctive citrusy heat of andaliman pepper from North Sumatra, was equally assured. Both mains were flavoursome, and we probably didn’t need to order the three different sambals alongside (though I couldn’t help myself), but part of what I love about Indonesian food is their sambals: always packed with flavour, adding a vibrant dimension to any dish. The sambals are ordered at an extra cost of £5 each, terasi, mango, and Hijau -a vegan green chilli version, were worthy of attention in their own right and pair well with their simpler dishes, like Ayam Bakar (grilled chicken).

The deconstructed Kolak Pisang and the Dadar Gulung, Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image credit MTotoe/ FLO London

Both desserts were a genuine pleasure. The deconstructed Kolak Pisang - caramelised banana with coconut milk, pandan, palm sugar, sweet potato purée and a cashew nut biscuit - was light and layered. The sweet potato puree was astoundingly smooth, delicate tasting - utterly delicious! The Dadar Gulung are pandan crepes filled with grated coconut and palm sugar, served with cashew crumb and coconut ice cream. Pandan is an ingredient native to Southeast Asia that lends a vivid green colour and sweet floral aroma to dishes. This was a surprising dish to my guest and having been so nobly off desserts for the last month she tucked in with gusto.

The kitchen is helmed by a chef from the Fairmont Hotel stable, and the rest of the team from other high end hotel chains and it shows in the seamless service and refined presentation.

Le Nusa, Strand, London. Image courtesy of Le Nusa

For those new to Indonesian food, Le Nusa has a particularly sensible pre-theatre menu - two courses for £32 or three for £39 - well-suited to its location within easy reach of the West End’s theatres. It’s a low-risk, high-reward way into a cuisine that deserves more attention than it typically receives in London.

Le Nusa is a thoughtful restaurant with genuine ambition, working to bring Indonesian cuisine the serious platform it deserves in the capital. Go with an open mind, and an empty stomach.

Location: 227-228 Strand, London WC2R 1BE Website: lenusa.co.uk  Instagram: @lenusalondon

  Review by Natascha Milsom